Small pieces of Bergen

Everyone knows Bergen for the Bryggen, the fjords, cobblestone streets, the fish market and coffee.  But, there are the little pieces of Bergen that are cute little reminders of the rainy city that I call home.

Yellow signs and the rain

Puddles!!!

Pretty Bryggen on the ground

Biking in the rain

Bus stops

Grass roof

Mail boxes

Moss everywhere

The American Girl in Edvardsens

Norwegian speaking, Football, Fifa, beer, pizza, loud music, snus, action movies, military, inappropriate comments, more beer, sleeping in, cigars, politics, a lot more football, Flight of the Concords, construction, 5 minute haircuts and no toilet paper.  Otherwise knows as, the boys...

English speaking, nail painting, cooking, occasional tears, early mornings, pink towels, teaching, scented candles, Skype calls, Project Runway, baking, makeup, 50 Shades of Grey, shopping, blow dryers and hair straighteners, country music, Me...

Mix these and you get 4 cousins, one douchbag jar, confusing looks, explanations and lots and lots of funny pictures and stories...

Here are just a few glimpses into life at Edvardsens...

We started the douchbag jar after watching "New Girl".  When I first moved in, there were quite a few comments or gestures I considered over the top "boy".  Ok, just gross and I don't feel like repeating them.  So, in order to keep these comments to a minimum, we implemented the jar.  If you do or say something above and beyond...douchbag jar.  Recently, it's become more of a "healthy behavior jar" after we implemented some additional rules.

1. "Douchy" comments and gestures: 5KR
2. Smoking (no, I'm not smoking..this is the boys): 10KR/cigarette
3. Eating Ben and Jerrys (If you know me, you know this is mine): 20KR
4. Frozen pizza (for one cousin in particular): 5KR
5. Working out less than 2 times per week: 5KR
6. Getting kicked out of/not let into a bar: 50KR

It's only empty because we just withdrew 700KR from the first two months!!

Honesty: I was hanging out with my cousin the other day, trying out our new phones and all the fancy apps.  He took a picture of me standing (awkwardly and i'm sure there was a breeze in the room) and said "Hey look! From the angle your standing with that shirt, you look pregnant. Awesome!"  Not really what I was going for, but thanks??  Just one of the many highlights of living with a group of boy cousins:)  They always tell when what your wearing really does make you look fat.

I cannot believe I am posting this...never wearing that shirt again!!

Laughter: I walked into the living room one afternoon just as one cousin was coming home from shopping.  What for?  An outfit for his Octoberfest party that night.  Obviously, he had to try it on.  Yet another highlight of living with the boys, free entertainment!!!

Boredom?? What is a girl to do on a rainy day, when she is not employed and trying to save money while also staying entertained??  Well, makeovers sound like a good idea.  Yes, my cousin let me do this to him.  

Some homemade hair mask

A terrible haircut because apparently, I cannot cut hair.  What a good sport (It got buzzed off about an hour later)

New hobbies: Walk into the main living room on a rainy Sunday evening and you will see something a little like the picture below.  Fifa on the big screen, a not so important football game on a computer, and another laptop for the computer game.  What am I doing while all of this is going on?? Well, I do watch the game, but while I am also blogging, facebooking, lesson planning, practicing norwegian (rarely, I admit) or painting my nails...

I grew up with 4 girls and one boy (my dad) and always had girl roommates so this is quite a difference.  It's me and the boys living in a 3 apartment unit.  For the first time in my life, the boys outnumber me.  I've never had brothers but my cousins are as close as it gets.  Hopefully, they aren't sick of me waking them up to go running, making them play their football games on their computer so we can watch the new episode of The Voice or asking for thoughts on my outfits:)  If they are, they're out of luck because I'm not going anywhere anytime soon.

Life these days: From "Long Term Visitor" to "Resident" in Bergen

It's already October.  Not including the 8 weeks I spent in Colorado this summer, I have been living in Bergen for 9 months now.  It feels like it's flown by.

I took two big steps toward becoming a "resident" in Bergen verses a "long term visitor" in Bergen.  First, I signed up at the gym for 12 months.  Second, I signed a 12 month contract for a Norwegian phone service.  Finally, I can go for a run or go spinning and not get drenched in rain.  I can say goodbye to the old Blackberry and phone cards!!  And other than the phone and gym, I've also started working and living like a Norwegian.

One of the biggest struggles I've had since moving here has been employment.  I've been working as a substitute teacher at the International School of Bergen.  It has been inconsistent and challenging.  I am never guaranteed work, which means some weeks I work very little or even nothing.  Some days I'd work in the Kindergarten, other days i'd be teaching Norwegian or French to 9th graders.  Some months good, others bad.  Recently, things with the school have changed for the better (for me).

One of the teachers at school is sick and is now only working 20%, meaning she needs coverage for 80% of her work...as the ESL teacher and Coordinator for the lower school.  That's me!! So, I finally have a consistent job.  At least for the next month or so.  And, I love it.  I finished my first week of work (well, 33 hours of work) and came home on Friday with a smile on my face.  The last time I worked a full week of work, I was at the adoption agency in Denver and was used to being so stressed that I couldn't see straight.  It was amazing to come home after working all week and think about the weekend and fun things, rather than continuing to think about work and work, and more work.

I've mentioned before that people in Norway work to live, they don't live to work.  So, what about my life in Norway?  Well, it has been great!  I am finally at the point now where I feel like I know Bergen.  You know you know a place when you have options.  Instead of needing to go to the grocery store, I think, "which store should I go to".  I know the one that sells Siracha, the one with the cheap chicken, and the one that doesn't charge for bags.  If I need to get home, I consider which route I should take? Bus, bybane, walk?? Give directions to someone...ok, that one is still a little tricky but I'll give it a shot:)

One thing I do not do but really need to is speak Norwegian.  You know, the language they speak here yet I have still not perfected (not even close)!  I decided not to take the Norwegian course this September because it was so expensive so I am not even being forced to practice.  I am still figuring out a way to make it happen, but I have lost motivation.  My cousin's speak English so well, I teach English...so it's just easier to speak it!  I try to speak Norwegian to the cashiers at the grocery store and bus drivers and such, but they catch on and answer me in English.  I will learn, but it will take longer than it did my amazing sister (fluent after a year)!!

What comes next?  I'm planning to stay in Norway for Christmas so I can plan a trip to visit Colorado in January to meet my new niece!!  I'll be there for about 3 weeks, then back to Bergen.  I can't say I have any set plans for when I return in January, but who knows what will happen!!

And I don't have any pictures of anything very exciting, but do have some that I took with my new phone camera apps that I'll share...just to keep this post colorful:)

What to wear in Norway?

"There is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing", says the Norwegian.

I checked the weather today and as usual, RAIN. 23mm of it before 12!  With a warning for Hordaland (Bergen): fra i kveld og først på tirsdag lokalt bye nedbør. Translation, from tonight to early Thursday heavy rainfall.  Now, don't get me wrong, I don't mind the rain. I just don't like being cold and wet.

Only grey rain clouds to be seen on the forecast.  No surprise there.
 

So, I begin my task of getting dressed for the day.  What do you wear in Norway, where there is an average of 88cm and 275 days of rain each year (Seattle is at about 36cm and 158 days per year)??  Well, what would you wear if you had to get in the shower and stay dry and warm?  You may laugh, but really, it sometimes feels like the same thing.

There are some "regularly" warn items here in Norway that I would have laughed at a few months ago.  Today, I wish I had one. Oh, wait, I think I do!!

The "Norwegian Jumpsuit that has been dubbed the adult babygro".  Ok, people don't wear this out normally, but I have seen it at least twice (in public).  I won't lie, if I had one of these, I might even wear it.  It looks cozy.  

Look closely, and it's warm outside???

Since, I don't walk around sporting this fabulous one piece, I try and find an alternative.  I look at it as a two part equation, the under layer and the outer layer.  The under layer simply consists of what I would wear out on a chilly day anywhere.  I have learned that the outer layer jacket and shoes are the most important. 

My rubber rain boots have become the most useful pair of shoes I own.  Sometimes walking to the bus stop (downhill) in the rain can be like walking through a shallow stream.  Only rubber boots will keep your feet from getting wet.  And of course, I bring my other slip on shoes with me to school so I don't have to walk around in boots all day.

A waterproof jacket with a hood is the best. An important thing to remember is that Rain in Norway doesn't always come from above.  Rain pants are also very important, especially on the days I have to stand outside with the kids and the rain is coming at you sideways.  

An umbrella.  I love my umbrella.  Unfortunately, I can't always count on it to work.  Another important reason to have your rain jacket with a hood!  It can get windy and there is nothing worse than a bent backwards umbrella.  Bergen is sometimes called the "umbrella graveyard" after all of the broken and sad umbrellas people leave on the streets.  Poor, sad umbrellas. 

I'd like to think that my pretty, flowered umbrella will brighten any day, but as you can see...still gloomy. 

Another umbrella having seen the end of its days.

  

My last, very important item is a big bag.  I prefer a big purse that I can fit my book, extra shoes, socks, lunch and my wallet inside.  As long as it can squish comfortably on a crowded bus and fits all of my stuff, it works for me!!

If you're going running outside, just expect to get wet.  Run harder and the chill might feel good.  And if you're going out to the pub, just disregard all of the above.  Rain, sleet, hail, snow.  It's all the same.  Wear a dress, leggings and heels of course.  Because it's not cold or difficult to walk downhill on cobblestone streets in that!!   

Norway vs. the US in Everyday Life

Gas stations, chatty people, Starbucks, traffic, shopping malls, air conditioning, DVR, happy hour, highways, mani/pedis, 24 hour fitness, draughts and 40 hours/week.  These are all things that remind me of everyday life back in Colorado.

Cobblestone streets, wooden houses, orange buses, broken umbrellas, Friele coffee, a blue stone, Hansa, hills,  rain boots, sandwiches, the fish market, wool, cruise ships, drumming, and rain.  These are all things that remind me of daily life in Bergen.

It's interesting how small things can make such a huge difference in a persons everyday life.  When I was visiting Colorado this summer, I realized that I barely walked.  You can park and walk less than 50 steps to get anywhere you want, and sometimes you don't even need to get out of the car. Drive thru food, coffee, pharmacies and even banks are everywhere.  There are new types of tasty (aka fatty) food creations everywhere, a fried chicken sandwich with bacon, cheese and a fried egg, bacon, lettuce and fried pickle sandwiches and my favorite...salted oreo milkshakes!  I saw a news report that an average of 30% of the american population is obese. Not overweight, but obese.  In Norway, you walk to the bus, to work, out the grocery store.  Even in the rain.  You don't have cheap and unhealthy food accessible to you at anytime, anywhere.  It's difficult to find 15 different types of the same processed foods in the grocery stores. And you also do not see 30% of the population being obese (Norway's number is 8.3%).  There is no effort needed to get up and moving a little bit everyday, and that is refreshing.

Look closely. Salted peanut butter cup. Surprisingly delicious!!

Communication styles and attitudes are also extremely different in these two places, and it was easy to recognize when visiting Colorado.  Coloradans are known for being very friendly.  "How are you?" is a normal greeting.  A smile is expected when running past a fellow runner on the path or sitting across from someone on a bus.  Small talk is part of everyday life, checking out at the grocery store, waiting in line for coffee, or taking a break at work.  Norwegians are known for being a little colder, unless you know them or if they've had a few drinks.  Many people see this as a negative but I have realized how nice it is to know when someone is talking to you, and asking you how you are, they are being sincere.  There aren't as many superficial people and conversations.  It is also refreshing as sometimes you just want to keep your mouth closed.

Stress.  The reason I left my job in Denver and one big thing I do not miss.  People in Norway stress, but not like they do in the states. You work to live, you don't live to work.  I think this is a huge distinction between the "normal" lifestyle in the US vs. Norway.  If you are sick, you have time off to get better.  If you have a baby, you and your husband most likely can take time off.  If you have a family commitment, sick child or emergency, most of the time you can leave work without the risk of losing your job.  I can honestly say I love not dreaming about work every night and waking dreading my upcoming day in the office.

Now that I have been in Norway long enough to feel comfortable and settled, I have gotten used to the everyday life.  I love walking, looking at the people walking down the streets and enjoying some peaceful time to myself.  I feel healthier and more rounded.  I enjoy spending time with my friends, talking about things I care about and skipping the superficial chit chat.  Even though I don't have a permanent, full time job, I stress 90% less than I did in Colorado.

I won't lie and say I don't miss an iced coffee from Starbucks, a $25 mani/pedi or driving to the grocery store.  But I've inherited new habits and daily pleasures.  Painting my own fingers and toes, sitting for a cup of coffee and a chat with a friend and my weekly running group and Norwegian pilates class.  Every person is different and Norway might not be ideal for everyone.  But for the time being, Norway is my top pick.

R3NY892MYR78

Stages

Over the last 8 years, I've left "home" and moved abroad a number of times.  Once to move on board a ship which sailed around the world (Semester at Sea, everyone should do this if they can), the second time to teach English in Bangkok,Thailand, the third time for an internship in Sarajevo, Bosnia and most recently, to Bergen, Norway.  After leaving and returning so many times, I have learned that there are stages an average person experiences when moving to a new country. Never anticipated, some good, and some bad.

Stage 1: Best place on earth!!!

There has always been a feeling of euphoria when arriving in a new country.  Everything is new, fun, exciting and perfect.  The food is great, the people are interesting and there is always something fun to see.

Stage 2: SHOCK!

There is one moment.  It always occurs when you are not expecting it and shocks the hell out of you, reminding you that you are somewhere new, experiencing something totally unknown to you.  On Semester at Sea, it was when our ship was rocked by a 60 foot wave and we were stuck in life vests, ready to experience a real life Titanic.  In Thailand, I enjoyed a meal for 3 nights in a row and it wasn't until the 3rd night that I learned I was eating a stir fry consisting of intestines, stomach, liver, and clotted blood.  Yep. I was in Thailand.  In Bosnia, I visited a war museum and noticed pictures of my work place and neighborhood on display...destroyed by mortars and gun shots.  During this trip, it was my receipt from my normal trip to the grocery store.  Check this out and if you live in the US, you may be shocked too!

Olive Oil: $7
Flatbread: $4
Nectarines: $5
Chicken: $20
Eggs: $9
Milk: $3
Cheese: $8
Ham: $5
Veggies: $10
Total: About $90!!

This is what $90 in groceries looks like

Stage 3: Is that you??

I might be in a country on the opposite side of the earth from my friends and family.  But I swear that a few times a week, I see a close friend walking down the street, sitting on the bus or driving in a car next to me.  It is shocking how many doppelgängers are out there!!

Stage 4: Cravings

You can get just about anything, anywhere.  Subways, 7/11, McDonalds and Starbucks are worldwide...just about.  Grocery stores are stocked with the regular items for the most part.  Dove soap and crest toothpaste are seen almost everywhere and believe it or not, oreos too. But, no matter what or where you live and which store you shop at, there are always things you crave.  And I don't limit this list to food...

What I'm currently craving:
Iced coffee
Happy hours
Flat running trails
Ground turkey
Spicy food
Pedicures
Yogurt Guru!
DVR

Stage 5: In the US, we...

There is a stage at which a person begins nearly all sentences with "In the US, we....".  In the US, we have drive thru banks.  In the US, we have liquor stores open past 5, In the US, we eat out almost every night for dinner.  In the US, people do this and that etc, etc, etc...

I think this is a normal part of the adjustment process.  Comparing new things to the things you are used to.  Your "norm". What I've learned to be important is understanding that just because it's your "norm", doesn't mean it's better.  I think this is where a lot of people go wrong.

Stage 6: Homesick

It would be abnormal not to get homesick.  Family, friends, food, habits are all normal comforts of what you are used to.  What I have learned in this phase is that you must embrace it, be homesick and maybe even cry.  But then get over it.  It will be there when you go back to visit.  You can Skype.  People can send packages.  You will survive.

Stage 7: Not homesick

After the initial homesick phase, things start to settle.  You realize that you can live without those old comforts.  You find new comforts.  You find a way to communicate with those who are far, far away and you learn how to love where you are, not thinking about how it compares and what you are missing from that other place you come from.

Stage 8: Home

When the new place starts to feel like the old place, that's when you know.  I start explaining to my friends from afar that "In Norway, we only really need online banking" and "In Norway, the vinmonopolet is open until 5", "In Norway, we eat dinner at home together every night".  

I think there are people who move abroad and never feel like they're at home.  That makes me sad because this is truly the best part of being in a new place.  Knowing the unknown, embracing a new culture as a part of your own, loving what you never knew you would love.  

Summer Recap: Wedding, baby, vacation (fun)

I left Bergen for vacation on June 2nd.  5 weeks in Boulder/Denver turned into 10 weeks.  And in these 10 weeks, there were so many exciting moments.  One new brother in law, one new niece, exciting news, visits with friends, one lake vacation, and lots and lots of fun!

The first few weeks were busy with last minute wedding planning and preparation. Then, on June 16th, my little sister walked down the isle and married Cody Stoltzfus.  Mimosas and bloody marys, cupcakes, and dancing.  Lots of dancing.  What a fun day!!

Brunch Wedding in the back yard

Perfect backyard setup

Mr. & Mrs. Stoltzfus

While we were getting everything ready for the big wedding, my other younger sister was 9 months pregnant and unable to chase her 3 year old around any longer.  Which meant, I got to.  I spent almost every day with my wonderful nephew and had the best time!! He is an impressive little guy, I would like to call him a genius.  He can point out all types of cars, sings along to a number of different songs and has a special way of making you laugh.  Every once and a while, we got to bring along his little friend.  What an adorable pair.  It's only been a week and I miss him already!!

Kaden in his lightning McQueen car with his best friend, Kitty.

Whole Foods with Aunt Lizzie

Hanging out with his bestie

Getting ready to meet his little sister with a hair cut in a Mercedes.

We waited and we waited and finally, Flop (Kaden's name for his sister) made her way into the world.  She was born on July 9th, 8 pounds, tall, with dark hair.  Sophia Elizabeth (named after me).  Kaden loves her so much, it makes your heart melt every time you see them together.  I didn't think it would be possible to love another little one as much as I do Kaden.  But, it's possible.  I don't know how I will be able to wait another 6 months before I see her and Kaden again!!

Kaden, so excited to meet "Flop"

Me and my (first) niece

Oh my gosh, she's real!!

Niece and Nephew

Baby Sophia Elizabeth

Love you Sis!!

You'd think after a wedding and a new baby, there wouldn't be anything more to celebrate.  But not in my family.  More exciting news!! My older sister and brother in law are expecting a BABY GIRL!!!!  I could not be more excited for them!  And I am so proud of my sister, who made it through her first trimester and looks amazing!!!  I'll have to figure out a way to get back to Colorado in January to meet my second niece!!

I finished up my vacation with another vacation.  I extended my trip so I could go with my family to North Carolina and visit my mothers home town, spending a week on the lake.  Wakeboarding, swimming, fried pickles and sweet tea and loads of fun!!

Shanteelah Lake

Swan Cabin

The U-Pick farm

I said goodbye to my family, kissed the babies goodbye and got on my flight back home to Bergen.  I was surprised to be so happy to be back.  A few raindrops, a grandiosa pizza and a big cup of Norwegian coffee and I felt like I was home again.  I am back to work at the International School and hoping to start Norwegian classes again in September.  I'm excited for what I'm sure will be a very exciting next few months in the rainy city.  

Hiking at Bogetveit, through my favorite forest

Me and Nicole, hiking in the rain

Thanks for catching up!! Promise I won't wait another 3 months before posting again:)